I like beer. When I heard of a place that was named after King Gambrinus, the so called patron saint of beer, it was immediately added to my list of places to check out. Then I learned that they made a kick ass burger. Beer and burgers, I’m so there.
A soundtrack of Russian pop music was blaring when I stepped into the empty Bistro Gambrinus. It was still early and it looked like they were finishing up breakfast service and getting ready for lunch. I was greeted by a college-aged Russian gal who was followed closely by a man who didn’t speak, just nodded. She seated me as the quiet man loomed over her shoulder, never saying a word. A quick perusal of the menu revealed a few burger options like the western bacon cheeseburger and the BG burger that came with avocado and some other stuff. The ½ lb. Angus Beef cheeseburger ($5.95/lunch and $9.00/dinner) had my name on it. How could I pass up a burger that size for $5.95? Sold!
The small pub and restaurant is run by a Russian couple and is a mix of American standards, European pub fare and Russian meat platters complimented by a huge beer menu. They have beers from all over the world, including a few from Russian and Poland, along with hard-to-find ales and many local microbrews. Had it not been 11:30 in the morning and an hour before I had to go and shoot and assignment, I might have saddled up to the bar and stuck around for a while. Instead, I marveled at the wall to wall collection of beer signs and paraphernalia. Almost every inch of wall space was committed to beer signage. It was a shrine to beer. The only thing that struck me as odd about this beer haven was that they only stay open until 9PM. I’m sorry, but beer indulgence is usually just getting started at 9. I think they need to fix that.
My half-pounder took some time to make but it was worth the wait. With thick cheddar melting over the sides of the fat patty that was hugged by a bakery style roll with green onions, my lunch sat in the center of a square white plate with a steak knife impaled into it like the Sword in the Stone. It was a sexy burger. The girth of the sandwich made it a wee bit challenging to get it into my mouth but finally managed to negotiate a healthy bite. Mmmmm, yowza. Now that’s a tasty burger. The cheddar-covered meat was full of juice and had a sweet pink center, just as ordered. I gotta give extra points for the bun which was slightly toasted and had a mild onion flavor thanks to the green onions that were baked into the top. Round it off with a spicy Dijon mustard, crunchy fresh lettuce, ripe tomatoes, thick pickles and a little mayo and you have a meal fit for a king.
I was so involved with my burger I hadn’t noticed that a guy had come in and ordered some food to take out. When I looked up, he was in the midst of hitting on the nice looking Russian waitress, asking her if she was married, what time she gets off, yada yada yada. He swung for the fences but came up short. Denied! I felt bad for the dude. “A” for effort, but she was clearly out of his league. As the dejected guy sat waiting for his order, the non-speaking man approached my table bearing gifts. He set down a small plate with a cookie drizzled with chocolate, nodded and grunted, then walked away. I like the quiet man.
The Gambrinus has a good thing going, a solid burger and a beer menu that will take you on an international journey without leaving San Francisco. They should really think about changing their hours, people don’t want to go home at 9PM if their suckin’ down the brews and having a good time. Especially being so close to a university. Embrace the college crowd. By the way, if you’re a student at nearby University of San Francisco you have to pay a visit to BG because you are special and get 10 percent off. I will definitely be returning here to try a bottle of Baltika no.9 and, of course, to scarf down another burger.
RATING: 4

Bistro Gambrinus
1813 Fulton Street
San Francisco, California 94117
(415) 221-7777
www.beerandgrill.com
Hours: Monday – Friday 7AM – 9PM
Saturday – Sunday 10AM – 9PM
{ 2 comments… read them below or add one }
The hours are dictated by the Alcohol and Beverage Control. At least the hours that they can serve beer. There is an application pending to extend that, and it already may be in effect; but don’t hold your breath as bureaucratic wheels turn slowly. I do believe they will let you order a couple beers right up to 9:00 and then linger over them without trying to hurry you out the door – a most European style!
cool, good to know. thanks for posting.