*Editor’s note: Freelance photographer and longtime friend of The Hamblogger, David Paul Morris, continues his burger adventure as he fills in while Justin takes a break from the daily burger grind. David is a recovering vegetarian with a keen appetite for well made burgers, steak, chicken and fish. He is a photographer who covers news, features and sports as well as commercial and corporate assignments based in San Francisco with frequent trips to Asia.http://www.davidpaulmorris.com
Some things are better left unchanged. This holds true for a lot of things – including burgers and venues to eat burgers. This has been the philosophy for Bruce Chapman and his sister Sheila Chapman, co-owners of It’s Tops Coffee Shop in San Francisco, who think they’re doing something right – and they are. Celebrating 25 years in business after taking over from their father Richard “Dick” Chapman, the brother and sister team plan on keeping everything the same. Originally opened in 1935, It’s Tops has been in the Chapman family since Dick Chapman bought it in 1952 and instilled a tradition of quality food and great service set in a relaxed atmosphere. The retro eatery is on the fringe of the Castro on the corner of Market and Octavia streets sandwiched between Grooves Vinyl Attractions and Al’s comics.
When you first walk into It’s Tops you immediately get it. It feels like you’ve just taken a ride in Marty McFly’s time traveling DeLorean going back in time and landing in a 1950’s diner. The ambience includes several working coin operated soda fountain wall mount jukeboxes and every square inch of wall space is covered with a mix of photographs, signs, posters and items spanning over 70 years.
Upon opening the menu, it didn’t take long for me to spot the #6, the California Burger ($10.75, $12.25 with sautéed mushrooms). Made with a 1/4 pound of organically grown beef that is blended special by Golden Gate Meat, the burger comes with avocado and cheese. I read recently that adding avocado to your diet will help lower your cholesterol. Not sure how the cheese and beef would counter that, but I felt somewhat healthy about my choice. I chose Monterey Jack cheese over Swiss and Cheddar and declined the mushrooms and the mayo. For my beverage of choice I went with the first thing that moved me, a Bloody Mary made with Soju from South Korean distiller, Jinro.
I sat in a booth but soon after I was served my perfectly spiced Soju Bloody Mary, I moved to the counter so I could peruse the environment from a better angle. As I sat on the stool scanning the Seeburg Wall-O-Matic 100 jukebox with tunes from Fats Domino, Ray Charles and Chuck Berry, I was imagining what it was like to be here 50 –60 years ago. From the art on the wall, the red vinyl covered seats and the uniforms Sheila and Bruce were wearing it was evident that everything is pretty much the same now as it was back then.
Sheila delivered my burger surrounded by a load of the most beautiful golden brown fries I had ever seen. They were long and lean and the skins were left on – which in my opinion adds so much flavor to the spud. Bruce didn’t give away too many secret when we talked, but when I asked him what made his fries so good he would only comment that the potatoes are freshly cut daily and he has a technique of soaking and seasoning the potatoes that was passed down from his “Pops”.
That was all good, but I was here for the burger, which, according to their sign outside, was voted “best burger”. I looked around the burger trying to figure out the strategy of my first bite. I picked my angle and chomped down on what I thought was burger heaven. The ratio of fat to meat on this burger was perfect and it was mildly seasoned with just the right amount of cheese that melted evenly on top of the meat. The avocados were below the burger, which I thought was clever and stayed within the bounds of the bun.
And this brings me to the thing that keeps burgers together, the bun. I think, second to the meat, the bun is very important and the bun used on this burger was soft enough to melt in your mouth. Once again I tried, but I couldn’t get name of the bread they use from Bruce. It’s another secret, but my guess is that is made locally and delivered fresh. As I grazed on this burger delight, I knew that I found a place I would be coming back to again and again.
If you are looking for a place in the heart of San Francisco that offers a frozen-in-time décor and great burgers done right then I would recommend going to the place that lives up to its name – It’s Tops Coffee Shop. Parking is relatively easy and if you’re coming from out of town it is right off the 101 freeway. If you’re a late afternoon/early evening eater, be aware that It’s Tops closes for a break between the hours of 3pm and 8pm on Monday through Saturday but reopens for the late night crowd on Wednesday through Saturday staying open until 3am.
RATING: 5 out of 5

It’s Tops Coffee Shop
1801 Market Street
San Francisco, Ca 94103
(415) 431-6395
Hours: Days: Monday – Saturday, 8:00AM-3:00PM
Nights: Wednesday-Saturday 8:00PM-3:00AM
Sunday: 8:00AM-11:00PM
http://www.itstopscoffeeshop.com/
{ 14 comments… read them below or add one }
Hmm… a very different review than was in A Hamburger Today.
http://aht.seriouseats.com/archives/2010/12/its-tops-coffee-shop-burger-review-san-francisco-ca.html
Did they go on an off day? Did It’s Tops read the review and step up their game? Or did the reviewers just have wildly diverging expectations and/or criteria? Who knows? I am a bit sceptical of any review that is too much in one direction i.e. 5/5 or 0/5
There are a lot of hamburger blogs out there these days. I think Hamblogger is one of the best. I also think AHT is right on up there. I am having a hard time reconciling the difference of opinion regarding It’s Tops. Is it the best, or is it a big disappointment? Aren’t there some kind of standards that are universally agreed, upon or are all these blogs just descriptive?
Enquiring minds wish to know! Of course, it’s all good, since now I and all my burgophile friends will have to judge for ourselves, which means more business for It’s Tops. I am just surprised at the inconsistancy.
p.s. the photo of the burger in the AHT review actually looks good to me!
I think one of the major issues with this particular burger review site is that there are too many reviewers. the diversity of tastes, perspectives, experiences, etc. makes it impossible to compare one place to another. Without consistent judging criteria (does this website offer any kind of official criteria?), none of this really makes sense.
I’ve got to agree, I love the site, but these “reviews” are meaningless when theres no basis for the rating system, especially amongst all the different reviews and their differing tastes.
I think we should have kept silent about this. There hasn’t been a review in two weeks; in other words, since my first comment. This after a spate of entries coming almost daily. Obviously we are being punished for our insolence!
Well I’m sorry for trying to help improve something I love then
One month. R.I.P. Hamblogger
This is the best burger blog on the intertubes bar none; come home soon, we need you…
I agree with everything noted above…where have you gone Joe Dimaggio?
I don’t think he’s coming back. RIP
Alas, poor Hamblogger…we hardly knew ye.
Has anyone else tried emailing / tweeting them? I haven’t gotten a response either time…
UPDATE from Justin:
“Sorry we have been awol for the past few months. Been really busy with my real job and we were having trouble getting our contributors to get us content. So, we’ve decided to take a little break and regroup to figure out the best way to move forward. We’ll be back sooner or later. “
I tried this place a couple of years ago and it was more like 2/5. The burgers appeared to be generic pre-formed and tasteless, the bun was mediocre supermarket fare and the fries were greasy and soft like the fry oil wasn’t h0t enough. It’s cute layout and has a visible, although difficult location with few other restaurants and stores for support, but 5/5? I hope the owners or cooks have dramatically changed since my experience.
I don’t think I can hold my breath much longer… We miss you guys!